This year celebrates the 8th Annual Donna National Marathon. Donna Deegan, three-time breast cancer survivor…
Surf forcasting has come a long way in a short period of time. As much as I love tracking swells and knowing where and when to get the best waves, I’m happy I grew up in a generation where ‘checking the waves’ meant peeking over the dunes and freaking out!
Nowadays wave forcasts dictate our lives (surfers’ lives). If the surf is good we take a sick day from work.
I created the series ‘Sick Dayz’ to showcase great swells from around the world. These film segments are raw surf clips of all the surfers in the lineup on a particular day. While filming for my feature films ‘Eastside Theory’ and ‘Sounds Of Waves’ I archived a lot of great rides that never appeared in the movie. The hope of this series is to reconnect people with the stoke from ‘that day’.
Good surf clips are like fine wine, they get better with age. As I release these random segments from various places and times, please contact me if you see one of your rides. Everyone who claims their wave will be entered into a raffle for the chance to win an epic prize!
There are currently only a few segments online but you can expect a lot more sessions to go live in 2014. Why did I add the ‘z’ to ‘Sick Dayz’? I just did.